Loki likes to mess with Mjolnir. In his latest “scheme,” he messed with its sound when Thor hit something with it.
Mjolnir squeaked like a toy for a week.
Submitted by rosesareredandangelsarewhite
Also: animal noises-a different one each time Mjolnir hits something. Or sounds from various Broadway musicals.
In a previous post, I promised to do one about binding off. Here it is. At some point, I’ll be adding pictures to this post or another so you can visualize my directions.
As far as I know, you don’t need to bind off for crocheting. Knitting on the other hand, you almost always need to bind off. The only patterns that don’t require it are ones that have you decreasing by knitting or purling 2 or 3 stitches together until you’re down to one, then bringing the yarn through and tying off.
Binding off is almost the exact opposite of casting on stitches, only you’re dropping them off verses adding them.
To bind off, you knit two stitches one at a time like normal, then bring your left needle behind the stitch closest to your right hand on the right needle and bring it over top the stitch closest to the front of the needle and drop it off the needle. There should be 1 stitch left on the needle. Knit another stitch to make 2 stitches on the right needle and bring the stitch behind it over top again to bind that stitch off. Keep repeating this until all but the last stitch have been bound off. If the yarn remaining is just a string, bring it through behind the loop (which is the part of the loop facing the project) through to the front and tighten. From there, you can either make a knot by that last loop and tie off or you can take a yarn needle and sew that last strand through.
I’ve mentioned in past posts things you’ll need while knitting or crocheting-be it at home or while traveling. This is going to be about other necessities.
Rulers: I’ve mentioned them before, but in this case, I’ve decided to expand it. While knitting or crocheting, you’ll need at least 2 rulers: a 12 inch ruler and a yardstick. If you’re knitting or crocheting dishcloths, the 12” is fine, but if you’re working on a longer project, like a blanket, you’ll need the yardstick. Of course, the latter works just as well for the dishcloths, but it’s a hassle to transport.
Row markers: for knitting, the circle ones work particularly well, especially if you are working with circular needles. For crocheting, I’ve heard that the row markers that lock in place are better, especially if you’re crocheting in the round. I’ve yet to try these, but other crocheters swear by them.
I found a site that has a whole lot, so I thought I’d do this!
If this gets a lot of reblogs, please be patient! I am slow!
This should be interesting …
One can never have enough books, thank you for doing this.
This post could also be titled ‘What every knitter or crocheter needs to have’. However, while most of the things I’ll be listing are things that you’ll have at home as part of either your stash or supplies, what to take with you if you are traveling is a different matter. This is mainly because how one is traveling and the constraints on time and how much you are able to pack will dictate what you absolutely need to pack with you.
If you are traveling by car, RV/Camper/travel trailer, you will have a bit more room to pack your supplies and such in. Traveling by plane, however, requires you to be slightly more circumspect. For existence, you likely will not be allowed to bring the following things aboard a plane in one’s carry-on: knitting needles, crochet hooks, row holders, essentially anything that can be used as a weapon. If you are traveling by plane, your best bet is to either pack your supplies and yarn in one of your suitcases or leave them at home.
Here is my list of what you should have in your traveling knit/crochet kit:
- Knitting needles of various sizes (If strictly a crocheter, ignore this)
- Crochet hook
- Row counter
- Enough yarn not only to complete your project, but to also start a new one should you have the time. Should you fail to pack enough yarn, there is usually somewhere near where you’ll be that will have some more yarn of the type you need.
- Yarn needle
- Scissors-at least one pair. Regular scissors work best, though most craft scissors do as well, though I do NOT recommend the children’s scissors that they have in preschools and kindergartens to try and cut yarn with. Unless you want to fray your yarn…
- 1 12 inch Ruler (having failed to do this several times myself, I have been lucky enough to have plenty of rulers where I work. Trying to find one by the light of my cell phone, though…not fun, especially in a floor-length dress)
fanfic: twelve days of christmas
characters: jane foster, darcy lewis, pepper pots, thor, avengers, jane/thor
notes: based on this submission to The Avengers HeadCanons (which was my submission, but then I changed my tumblr name):
Jane is going to kill the person who told Thor that the ‘Twelve Days of Christmas’ should be taken literally.
Submitted by kaymbee17
I couldn’t let it go, and so, this happened. More notes at the end.
Found this on the Avengers Headcanons blog and had to reblog.
This is the second in the yarn overs series and likely the last of the yarn over posts. In the last yarn overs post, I gave you the yarn overs for switching between knit and purl stitches. This one deals with doing yarn overs between two like stitches. In case you didn’t catch the last yarn over post, the abbreviation for yarn over(s) is YO.
YO between two purl stitches: After the first purl stitch, YO in the reverse direction, taking the yarn up over the right hand needle, then bringing the YO stitch under the needle, ending in the same direction you need to be in to do your next purl stitch.
YO between two knit stitches: Similar to the above YO, instead of bringing the yarn over the needle, you bring it forward, then take it over the top of the needle, with the end result being that you’ll be able to knit your next stitch.
All four of the yarn overs are used in various patterns, though I’ve yet to run into one that uses the YO between 2 stitches of the same stitch (k or p). The baby blanket I’m working on uses the ones that transfer between the k and p stitches.
You’ll find increasing and decreasing in various patterns. These patterns that call for an increase or decrease typically call for two, and in doing so, creates a specific look. An excellent example of a pattern that calls for increases is a triangle shawl; for a decrease, the pocket purse that appears in the Klutz knitting book mentioned in an earlier post.
Increasing: There are a couple of ways to do this, depending on the look you wish to create and what the pattern calls for.
- The first, also the simplest, is to do a yarn over in a specific direction-depending on two things: if you are doing a knit or purl stitch, and if you are switching from one to the other in the same row.
- The second is to do a knit stitch, but don’t drop the stitch on the left hand needle just yet. After the regular stitch is done, you bring the needle through the front of the stitch on the left hand needle as you would do a purl stitch and do another stitch. Now you are free to drop the stitch on the left hand needle.
Decreasing: Again: two different ways to do this, depending on the pattern.
- The first is to either knit or purl a certain number of stitches together, usually two or three, depending on the pattern. This can be used in place of binding off a project, depending on what project you are doing. The pocket purse pattern from the Klutz knitting book is a wonderful example.
- The second is to do a certain number of bind offs, like you would use to finish a project. My next post will cover bind offs. A good example of this is the cell phone carrier from the same Klutz knitting book as the pocket purse.
If you’re an avid knitter and/or have a knitting blog please reblog so I can follow, there are so many inactive blogs ;.;
I DO I DO I DO.
And The Knitted Panda is my other knitting blog where I post updates on my Etsy shop and my buisness~
As anyone who has either knitted or crocheted with pets around, especially cats, can tell you both the amusement and frustration it brings.
Now, some knitters or crocheters who either own cats or have tried to knit or crochet around cats will tell you it’s more frustrating then amusing because of the fact that the cats will go after the ball(s) of yarn like they would any toy of theirs, even if knitting or crocheting has been done around them before. The person doing the project-as in the case of one of my co-workers-may find that having the cats in the same room as the yarn and the project will result in the project ending up either NOT how it’s supposed to look or just not done.
Now, some knitters or crocheters, like myself, find it more amusing then annoying for a variety of reasons. Me, mainly because the cats I’ve knitted around tend to go after the yarn and not the project (which I’m grateful for), though I’ve found that even though I may start out with the ball of yarn on my right side (I’m a right handed knitter and a left handed crocheter), it’ll end up clear on the other side of the room from whence it started.
Dogs, for the most part, will ignore the yarn and the project, though with some dogs, you need to be careful. I have an aunt and uncle who have this dog that if you leave her alone (as in no-one in the house BUT her) with anything made with yarn within reach, 5 to 1 it will be completely torn apart when you get back.
Either way, if you have any type of pet in your house that’s allowed to be out and about, if you’re not working on a particular project, put it up. Do the same if you’ve got kids that are of the age where they get into anything and everything. Knitting needles and crochet hooks can harm either pets or children if placed in the wrong spot in their body. You’ll want to put it on a shelf or on a high enough space that they can’t get to it-even if that means putting it into some type of cloth bag.